Buasao's mystic hues

HAPPY WEEKEND
Gina Dizon

SAGADA, Mountain Province -- Trekking to Buasao here was a rewarding four to five-hour hike with 17 members of the Sagada Environmental Guides Association on a kick-off to their 1st annual climb last October 11-12 this year.

Having been a cyber tourist with the computer getting my attention for quite some time, the hunger to trek the mountains of this province where I come from was a driving need. It remains a persistent urge to trek the borders of Sagada’s adjacent towns of Bauko and Sabangan on the south, Tadian on the west, Besao on the north, and Bontoc on the east

It was an invigorating climb up to Buasao watershed located in the tri-boundaries of Sagada, Besao, and Abra. Starting from Palidan, Bangaan with its lush watershed providing waters of Bangaan.

I noticed lush trees and vegetation with some traces of logging. People actually practice a kind of traditional means of guarding the forest through their lampisa (water guards) system. While the water guards make sure that water is evenly distributed to the households, they also make sure that the watershed is free from forest fires and destruction.
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They also ban logging for commercial purposes. Trees are only cut for purposes of building houses for households of Bangaan, Madongo, Aguid, and Fidelisan of northern Sagada, so I came to know from an elder here.

Further up the climb, we came across big blue pipes destroyed and laid at the side of the irrigation canals. I am reminded of the blue Watsan pipes laid out in this part of the town, a project of the provincial government, demolished some years back due to some tapping issues.

An agreement between and among leaders and officials from Sagada and Besao led to tapping only the lower stream and not the higher stream. Waters from the lower stream continue to be tapped by folks from Besao and primarily by northern Sagada barangays especially Tanulong where the waters naturally flow to.
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Water is a prized ‘ownership’ among the tribes of Tanulong. So precious for their primary use as irrigating their ricefields that sharing it freely is not fully given to neighboring areas. Barangay captain Suyun of Aquid said waters from Buasao are not that strong anymore since the big earthquake in 1992.

He is thus hesitant to let the waters flow to nearby barangays of central Sagada, he said during a meeting recently attended by local leaders in Sagada.

Back to the climb, an up-hill climb from Palidan was rewarded by a stunning view of Aguid barangay. Such a sight with houses clustered together and mountains enveloping the village, like any Igorot settlement.

Winding irrigation canals and blue pipes set aside along with mossy vegetation filled the route along Palidan till Masini. Such a wondrous sight. The spot opens up trails to Mt Sisipitan and Buasaw. Down on the eastern side are the villages of Fidelisan and Aguid and an expansive view of Besao mountains on the west. On the south opens up a beginning up-hill climb to Datakan watershed.

Towards Buasao, we proceeded through open trails interspersed with mossy sections of Mt Sisipitan.Temperature drops significantly upon entering mossy trails which soothed tired nerves and calmed heavy breathing having walked sun-filled open spaces.
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Winding narrow paths with sharp cliffs finally led us to Buasaw. My imagination of an Amazon jungle with thick, huge trees and foliage was disappointed to find more open spaces, burnt trees and young trees. Rick Daytec from Besao recalled trees were then huge when they went camping in their elementary days in the 70s-80s. How much has changed in this once rich treasure of biodiversity?

Bernice A. See from Besao also recalled the mountains of Buasao together with Sisipitan were carpeted with moss. Orchids were plentiful and trees were thick and huge as well. That was in the 1960s.

Esperanza Baquiwet from northern Sagada also recalled in her childhood beautiful orchids and wild pigs and chickens still aplenty in the 80’s to the 90’s. Today is the 21st century and these rare species and thick foliage and trees are disappearing or rather, have already disappeared?
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In the campsite, we found a huge closed stone structure and a foundation of lined-up finely cut stones obviously to erect a building. The stones resembled rock materials used in building St Mary the Virgin Church after the war in the 1940s. And so it was heard that there was this foreigner who stayed here and the rest is blank as to why the stone structure was built there in the first place. What would have invited such foreigner to come to Boasao? I couldn’t help connecting the once nearby mines to the unfinished structure. I came to know that small scale mining among the locals was active some years back in Buasao. Don’t know if some people are still actively doing small scale -mining here.

Unless, Buasao was meant to be a recreation area by whoever prospected the idea of building a structure here. Views here are real spectacular though. A panoramic sight on the southern direction opens up to Mt Ampakaw and Mounts Babandilaan and Tinangdanan on the Bauko-Sagada border. The eastern front opens up to the mossy forest of Sisipitan with its soft horizontal ridge seen from a distance. The northern face follows a river with its cool and refreshing waters that even the bitter San Miguel gin becomes smooth gin-tonic.
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Buasao is heavenly mysterious. Its moods change from one moment to another. In the early afternoon, the campsite exudes a warm and cool ambience with pine scented air. A little around 3 pm, mist clouded in making the once upbeat and sunny weather turn gloomy pale with mist enveloping the atmosphere. Such a sight to capture this moment which got more nostalgic with dead and burnt trees making a rustic subject for a hungry lens.

Evening is another spectacle as dusk sets in. Around 6 pm, darkness enveloped the campsite with only the stars blinking beckoning a romantic tone if you’re with someone you love. Nevertheless, friendly fires of the lighted dead wood and the petromax added more light and company to an already pitch-dark night.

Coming up to Buasao with a bunch of happy and adventurous guys makes the night enjoyable and a trek to remember. Someone came up with his G-string and entertained the tired trekkers. Tin pans were beat like gangsa and plastic bottles served as solibao (percussion). While on the sidelights, such scenario drew sharp criticism from some locals saying the wahnes (G-string) should not be used in inappropriate situations. Nevertheless, the cold night was treated with San Miguel gin and generoso with a chaser of cool Buasao waters.

Some guys claimed the alcohol will be their company to keep them warm the whole night through. Jamming with the guys could have gone further in the night but drizzles cut the merriment. We scampered inside the tent with double socks to keep the cold out. The night was already old and tired at 10 p.m.
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Woke up to find out it was still 2 a.m. The night was long for dawn to come. Got out off the tent around 5:30 in the morning to find some guys already cooking dried fish for breakfast and warming up what’s left from last dinner’s pinikpikan and etag (smoked meat).

It’s parting time from Buasao around 8 a.m. and we returned to our trail supposedly to Mount Sisipitan. Giant ferns and rich moss hanging on every branch and shrub greeted us along the way and ending up lost in the thick foliage despite repeated attempts to climb the mountain.

Finding ourselves running around with no trail to lead us upwards, we scaled down the mountain slope clearing our way on trails seemingly not walked before. I imagined some snake or leeches greeting us along the way.

Good they were kind that time and no sight of them made a fright out of what already seemed to be a desperate state of finding a way to go up to Sisipitan. Seemed the spirits of Sisipitan did not want the mountain to be assaulted on a 90 degree angle. I heard later that the way should be on either end of the mountain.

Mt Sisipitan was then a battleground of New People’s Army rebels and government military forces some years back. The place seemed to be deserted of the reported elements.
Whatever, the exploratory trail-making led me to find out that Sisipitan has a rich biodiversity of ferns, moss, and trees. I can only wish Sisipitan would stay that way with more births of flora and fauna and sustain nature here.

It was back to Masini with lunch cooked here, and prepare for a climb to Datakan. Datakan is equally a mossy forested area atop the northern barangays of Sagada, with lots of acorn trees. Temperature cools down after long treks in open spaces. Walking further led us to Langsayan ridge. Had an invigorating rest here to have a good view of Palidan in Bangaan where we took off the other day.

And so it was projected by some consultants and energy officials that a wind farm is to be set up here which at the moment is pending due to questions of big time financing, energy consultant Engr Rufino Bomasang claimed. The western front of Langsayan was equally heavenly with expansive views of Besao and its towering mountains.

The group ended the two-day trek with planting of trees in Pilaw then trudged on till we reached the Besao-Sagada road going to Lake Danum. I am reminded of some boundary dispute between Besao and Sagada along these areas including Danum Lake as called by Sagada people and Banao Lake as claimed by Besao folks.

Before pursuing to talk about boundary disputes, I thank SEGA for this wonderful opportunity to trek with you. Cheers!