Community
traditions
Karylle
P. Piaga
Food and culture are
said to be interconnected with each other, as food plays a significant role in
shaping cultures that reflect beliefs, customs, and values of certain
community.
Kibungan is
one of the municipalities in the province of Benguet, popularly known as the
"Switzerland of Benguet" because of its rocky mountains, pine trees,
rivers, and streams.
Aside from
its natural beauty, it has rich traditional food crops, specifically
vegetables. Indigenous and traditional food crops are vegetables, fruits, nuts,
and grains that are native to the region or that are consumed linked to culture
and heritage.
In Kibungan,
traditional food crops help and serve as immediate source of sustenance for the
people.
Sherilyn B.
Balauro of the Benguet State University’s College of Home Economics and
Technology and Matyline A. Camfili-Talastas of Institute of Social Research and
Development conducted a study in 2019 titled "Traditional food crops and
their role in nutrition well-being of a semi-subsistent community in Kibungan,
Benguet."
The study
documented existing traditional food crops, post-harvest practices, and cooking
methods, estimated the nutrient value of these crops, and assessed the
contribution of these to the nutritional well-being of the community.
The three key
informants and 13 respondents identified different food crops, which were
categorized into root crops, vegetables, seeds, and fruits.
Participants
in the study said their traditional food crops are produced mainly for home
consumption, and in cases of surplus, sold or bartered with their neighbors, or
brought to Beyeng, a community near their place for selling.
Common root
crops include gabi, galyang, camote, cassava, and peanuts. The gabi (gamey),
and galyang (bela), are usually found in the corners of the rice fields but are
also planted in water-logged areas of the front yard or backyard of
houses.
Telay or
cassava is produced in the 'uma' (swidden farm) or at the side of the garden
since it requires low maintenance and can grow independently. Peanuts are
usually intercropped with beans in the 'uma' while potato is planted in
gardens.
Traditional
food crops include vegetables, not necessarily leafy but still supply the food
requirements of the community. These are primarily found in the gardens, but
some are also around the houses, especially in households with home gardens,
which are usually planted with various vegetables such as pechay and beans for
household consumption.
At study
site, gardens for vegetable production are small parcels of land and not as
extensive as those found in Atok and Buguias. Despite this, this did not limit
them from producing cash crops at limited volume.
These are
legumes and grains also planted in 'uma' and gardens. There were different
kinds and varieties of legumes, such as "kedis" or pigeon pea,
"batong" or "sinai" and patani still available in the
community. However, these are produced at a limited quantity which is just
enough for the household consumption.
These include
guava, pomelo, avocado, and banana, which are usually grown in the front or
backyard and consumed at the household level or shared with relatives and
neighbors. Some extras can be bartered or sold around.
The community
has simple post-harvest practices for handling their traditional food crops
since most of their produce is for home consumption. This post-harvest practice
is a sure way to get most of the nutrients from produce in its fresh
state.
One of the
distinct practices of the community is the panagkilang or panagkirog, where
seed crops such as legumes are roasted before storage in either a bottle,
plastic, or cellophane to avoid molding. It applies to legumes intended to be
consumed or eaten, which can be stored for a year.
This does not
apply to legumes that are kept as seeds for the next planting season. According
to one of the respondents, roated “kardis” can be stored for a year without
being infected with weevil.However, it was observed that the longer the legume
is stored, the longer it takes took cook. They observed that the roasted legume
does not loss its “taste” aside from a minor odor, but is tolerable even for
children.
Another,
technique is panagbilag (sun-drying) to remove moisture before storage. It is
applied to legumes and some root crops.
Further, it
includes the panag-suo, an alternative way of drying seed crops, where these
are placed above the "dalikan" or fireplace. This is common during
the rainy season when the sun seldom shines. In most cases, seed crops are
dried under the sun at day time and put on the "suolan" in the
evening.
Aside from it
includes panag-buko, which involves peeling of root crops, usually sweet
potato, then slicing it into thin layers before sun-dried until crisp. After
this, sun-dried sweet potato chips can be stored or powdered as flour.
The
participants shared that they have simple cooking methods in the community.
Most of their crops are either boiled, 'ginisa' (sauteed), or stir-fried.
Legumes, for instance, are boiled or "agasen" to soften before other
vegetables and spices can be mixed. For vegetables, though, these are usually
sauteed in lard and some spices whenever available.
Cooking
methods for the powdered 'camote' or cassava can be creative, like adding some
sugar and coconut, if available, and wrapping it with banana leaves before
steaming. On the other hand, 'aggey' can just be boiled for snacks, or it can
also be mixed in preparing 'kintoman' or sticky rice as rice wine to add flavor
and texture.
The community
believes that traditional food crops can be medicinal and improve their
nutritional status as they are free from pesticides. It also adds taste and
flavor to their diet, improves palatability, and helps to balance protein,
vitamin, and mineral intakes.
The
traditional food crops grown in the community provides a variety of essential
nutrients. As every 100g of the edible portion of root crops contain energy,
carbohydrates, protein, crude fiber, calcium and ascorbic acid or vitamin C. In
the interviews conducted, almost all residents of the community consume sweetpotato.
Sweetpotato when compared to other rootcrops such as potatoes, yam, and
cassava yields the highes dietarry energy at 70,000 kcal/ha/day.
Majority of
the leafy vegetables contain very high beta carotene, a common provitamin
A. Beta carotene is called the safe form of vitamin A since the body
converts only what is needed (Ruiz & Claudio, 2010). It is worth noting
that ‘sayote’ tops, which are abundant in Benguet, rank first as the richest
source of beta-carotene, even higher compared to malunggay that are abundantly
grown in the lowlands.
Legumes are
dubbed as “poor man’s meat”. Sagum (2013) mentioned that legumes have twice the
protein content of cereal grains and an economical source of good quality
protein.
Fruits also
provide a variety of essential nutrients. Vitamin C is highest in most fruits.
Guava and kalamansi, which are grown in Sitio Legleg, serve as the cheapest
sources of vitamin C. In interviews conducted, the respondents didi not mention
any symptom or complain about lowered resistance to infection or vitamin C
deficiency such as scorbutic symptoms characterized by bleeding, swollen gums,
loose teeth, swollen tender joints, internal hemorrhages ubderneath the skin,
etc. (Ruiz & Claudio 2010).
The study
emphasizes that the preservation of indigenous knowledge of traditional foods,
specifically post-harvest practices and cooking methods, indicates the
community's nutrition security.
The study
reminds us that with trends in food that have been evolving in the country, it
is still beneficial to patronize and promote traditional food since traditional
food crops shape community cultures and identities.
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