Magdalena Gamayo: Weaving through years

 Weaving

LIVING TREASURE -- Magdalena Gamayo, 99, a National Living Treasure awardee is gifted with fiesta-themed party nuocal officials and her community in Lumbaan, Pinili, Ilocos Norte during her recent birthday. -- Leilanie G. Adriano/PNA

Leilanie Adriano

LAOAG CITY – At 99, Magdalena Gamayo, the grandmother of handwoven cloth Abel Iloko, continues to weave the finest inabel textiles with a very high thread count and intricate designs that sometimes can take up to five colors.
    Every day, her local community in the farming village of Lumbaan, Pinili, Ilocos Norte, where she taught the traditional art of inabel, would see her work on her loom just like a kid playing with her favorite toy.
    “Weaving fascinated me very much,” Gamayo said in an interview Monday, ahead of her trip to Metro Manila this week in time for her month-long exhibit at the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) Gallery inside Intramuros, Manila.
    Her original artworks, along with the works of over 30 National Living Treasure Awardees, will be shown to the public free of charge.
    The project is headed by Edwin Antonio, chair of the Northern Cultural Communities of the NCCA, and with materials curated and written by Bernard Joseph Esposo Guererro, a textile consultant and cultural worker. Both experts hail from Ilocos Norte.
    Gamayo’s exhibit, dubbed "Inubon a Dayaw (String of Honor), will showcase her journey as the oldest national living treasure in the country.
    In 2012, the Philippine government recognized her as National Living Treasure awardee, catapulting her to a rank similar to national artist.
    This recognition, according to Nana Dalen (as Gamayo is fondly called), has changed her life including the local weavers whom she trained and are still training up to this date.
    “Age has not withered her away. More than anything, she has never been as passionate as she has been now in safeguarding the tradition,” said Guererro, as he underscored that the exhibit is not for profit but to realize Gamayo’s desire that the weaving tradition should never be lost for the appreciation of the future generations.
    Gamayo said she enjoys her craft from beginning to end, transforming a natural fiber into a work of art.
    In the olden times, textiles were produced not for fashion but for practical reasons. If not for shirts and dresses, these are used to make blankets.
    None of Gamayo’s older works survive largely due to an essential Ilocano practice.
    “I have seen so many people dear to me going ahead, and often I feel that it is my responsibility to gift each of them blankets for them to use in the afterlife,” she said.
    Among Ilocanos, blankets happen to be the most important “paba-on”, or parting gift, to be given to the dead.
    As Gamayo hails from a remote village, Guerrero said "Gamayo’s talents have not been realized and recognized as early as they should have been as she had been enormously overshadowed by weavers closer to the center who have better opportunities to make their work more accessible.”
    “That, however, may have worked to Gamayo’s advantage as it only meant that her craft was untainted by outside influences; therefore, keeping her artwork, style, and philosophy in their purest forms,” he said.
    Luckily, Gamayo’s October 2023 exhibit will showcase all her original artworks, at least three of which are her oldest living works and exclusively for visitor’s eyes only, Guererro added. -- PNA
 
 

Read more...

DOT features Cordillera weaving exhibit bazaar

BAGUIO CITY -- Weaving arts, crafts and products from provinces of the region were featured in “Cordillera weaves exhibit and weavers’ bazaar” at the Tourism regional office here Nov. 27 to Dec. 1.
    DOT Cordillera director Jovita Ganongan said traditional knowledge in the art of weaving is an important part of Cordillera’s rich culture and heritage that must be celebrated and pass on to the future generations.
    The weaving exhibit and bazaar provided a venue for Baguio folks and visitors to have a glimpse and to buy Cordillera weaving products for souvenirs or gifts and at the same time to learn about the Cordillera weaving as an art and an industry
    The DOT Cordillera in partnership with the Tourism Promotions Board, also initiated a webinar on Nov. 29 – 30 dubbed “Cordillera weaves, tradition, innovation and commerce” that aimed to explore the past, present and the future of Cordillera weaving industry.
    Science and Technology regional director Dr. Nancy Bantog presented the state of the Cordillera weaving industry, Trade and Industry OIC regional director Juliet Lucas talked on “Protecting the rights of the weaving industry stakeholders” while Tourism Promotions Board Chief operating officer lawyer Maria Anthonette Velasco – Allones discussed “Bringing the weaving industry in the 21st century.
    “The art of weaving design, tradition and the village weavers was discussed by Marion Martin of Kiangan Weavers Association.
    “Digitalization of the Cordillera textile was by Museo Kordilyera social anthropologist and museum director Dr. Analyn Salvador – Amores.
    Activities were in support to ongoing IBAGIW Creative Festival, an institutionalized event of the city government in line with Baguio being a member of the UNESCO’s Creative Cities particularly on Crafts and Folk Arts. -- PIA Cordillera

Read more...

DOST, Cordillera groups roll out weaving dev’t plan

By Christian Robert M. Sandoval

BAGUIO CITY – The Dept. of Science and Technology – Cordillera Administrative Region and partner agencies launched the Cordillera weaving industry development plan here July 26 to boost the weaving industry in the region and highlight the vital role of weavers.
    “It is a blueprint to all stakeholders in the weaving industry to capitalize on strengths and opportunities within and outside the region while dealing with challenges to expand the industry’s share for the socio-economic development for the region,” said DOST-CAR regional director Dr. Nancy Bantog said in her message.
    She added the CWIDP “addresses government and private sector initiatives towards a competitive and sustainable weaving industry.”
    The CWIDP 2020-2028 envisions a Cordillera-inspired, creative, and vibrant weaving industry that is sustainable, resilient, and globally competitive, advanced by a community of artisans and entrepreneurs for the benefit of the Cordillera people.
    In his message, DOST Sec. Fortunato de la Peña congratulated stakeholders in the weaving sector.

“May our partnership with key agencies and lead institutions guide the region towards a competitive and sustainable weaving industry for the benefit of the community,” he said. “This is a testament that through science, technology, and innovation, we can improve lives of our people.”

The organized Cordillera Weaving Industry Council is the recognized body to implement CWIDP.

During the launching, a press conference was also held with the Philippine Information Agency with local media with stakeholders.

Also present were academe, officials of the Dept. of Trade and Industry-CAR, National Economic Development Authority, local government units and weaver groups.

These included West Quirino Hill Women’s Organization, Share Weavers Association, Conquerors Association of Middle Quirino Hill, D’ Dreamers Association, Bloom Weavers Association, Agape Weavers Association, Blessed Hope Association, Ubob-on Di Babae ed  Cypress Irisan, Kulibangbang Weavers, Highland Women Multi-purpose Cooperative, and Weaving Arts and Crafts of Tublay).

As chair of the Cordillera Weaving Industry Council (CWIC), DOST-CAR organized the Cordillera weaving industry summit from July 26-30 in time with the 34th Cordillera Month celebrations.

Activities included face-to-face and virtual webinars, trainings and workshops for local weavers on topics such as contemporary fashion trends and basic handloom as well as marketing trends and opportunities in traditional and digital platforms.

Weaver groups from Abra, Apayao, Benguet, Ifugao, Kalinga and Mountain Province joined via live webcast of the events.

 

 

 

 

 

Read more...

Itogon group sustains weaving biz despite odds

By Susan Aro

ITOGON, Benguet -- The Golden Livelihood Association here in Poblacion is an inspiring story of being able to rise again and rekindle interest in the weaving craft utilizing the fabric produced and sewn into an array of products.
    The association’s endeavor may not be that profitable yet but the unity and cooperation among the members bond them and keep them going.
    This was coupled with the support of concerned agencies, the municipal and provincial government and those who patronize their products.
    Milagros Fermin, the association president, said she was grateful for the unity and cooperation of members which kept them together with Divine Providence’s intervention despite struggles that beset them through the years especially during the Covid-19 pandemic.
    Some do the weaving while others do the sewing of the woven fabric and turn them into array of products such as bags, pouches, purse, apparels, masks, decors, throw pillows, foot rugs and caps.
    The 2-storey shop where they do the craft is quite small. It was originally built out of galvanized iron and later improved into a concrete structure through the municipal local government’s resources. The lot was donated by Carmencita Wakit, one of the members.
    “Our first output was a blanket when Mrs. Bugnosen came to teach us how to make wall décor, foot rug, throw pillow,” said Wakit.
    In 2006, they were trained to weave cloth but due to limited stocks of thread with the  surge of prices due to low supply,   they decided to stop because it will not pay off even their labor if they pursue, said Wakit.
    On July 16, 2013, the association regrouped and rekindled their interest. This they attributed to the Dept. of Trade and Industry’s grant of some units of sewing machines under the Shared Service Facility livelihood assistance which seeks to improve productivity and efficiency of small enterprises.
    They also changed the group’s name into Golden Livelihood Association dividing the group into weavers and sewers.
    Through the DTI and the Dept. of Agriculture, their products are being displayed in trade fairs like the Adivay Festival and also in Abra.
    Though they are being patronized by the community and schools in the locality, market outlets are still wanting, according to Fermin.
    They want their products to reach other areas.
    This year, the Itogon Negosyo Center provided basic training for maintenance of sewing machines so they know how to do simple repair if something goes wrong.  
    They were also trained on embroidery to  enhance their finished products.
NC Business Counsellor Lydia Alhambra of DTI said their office is also training the association members on book-keeping.
    Last Dec. 16, the provincial government provided two units of weaving looms through the efforts of Councilor Clint Galutan.
He said he hopes the group will have more members to learn about the  craft.
    Wakit said they need to train others - members who really have the passion and dedication for the venture to prosper.
    They also need high-end sewing machines to improve their craft. – PIA Benguet

Read more...

Abel fest in La Paz, Abra features culture, tradition

 LA PAZ, Abra --This municipality is known for its “abel”, a traditionally hand-woven textiles crafted for  durability. 

It is often called home to traditional loom weaving industry in the province.

For four years now, the town celebrates the Abel Festival to showcase the culture of abel industry and its products which have been kept alive by the Lapazeños across generations.

The Abel festival features street dancing demonstrations. Various colorful abel cloth designs are worn by participants from the different participating barangays during their cultural dance performances around the town.

La Paz Mayor Menchie Bernos she said that the Abel festival has been celebrated since she was elected as the local chief executive of the municipality.

“It is the One Town, One Product of La Paz and we are eager to promote this not just around the province but also to the whole country,” she said.

“It has become the lifestyle of this municipality. Mostly women are involved in this practice and they have their own weaving facilities in their houses so they normally do abel weaving during their free time,” Bernos added.

Their indigenous textiles are sold mostly through trade fairs as far as the National Capital Region and Visayas.

The mayor also disclosed that local abel products have also  reached overseas like fashion shows in New York  with  some  exhibitors and known designers  coming  personally to purchase Abel fabrics for their designs.

The mayor said abel weavers (agab-abel) of the municipality are encouraging younger generations to practice and master the art of the Abel loom weaving to keep the tradition and culture alive. 

In Barangay Bulbulala, known to be the source of  abel products such as clothes, blankets, pillowcases, polo shirts, scarfs, table runners and placemats, children as  young as eight years old are practicing and joining the tradition.

Bernos said the local government is in full support to the loom weaving communities of La Paz by sponsoring trainings for them and pushing them to join trade fairs in and outside the Cordillera region. 

As the  awareness and demand for  abel products is getting high, Lapazeños continue to keep the tradition of this old-age industry of panagabel alive. (JDP/CAGT-PIA CAR, Abra)

Read more...

UP Baguio sets exhibit on Cordi textiles

By J. Lazaga

BAGUIO CITY -- Within the warp and weft of our textiles are stories as colorful as the strands, as rich as our history, and as animated as our people. These otherwise tacit stories are what the Museo Kordilyera aims to tell in its new exhibit titled “Handwoven Tales: The Warp and Weft of Cordillera Textiles.”

These stories include “Indigo blue and other dyes” which tells about the bluish-black dye produced from the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria) variously called tayum by the Ilokanos, tayum-tayum in Abra, dalum in Ifugao, and tayom in Tagalog.

These deep dark colors common in the Cordillera include the bluish-black, nangisit (Tingguian and Ilokano), indigo blue, sinamlan (Ga’dang) and tinanagun (Ifugao), and the vibrant red, lagtag (Kalinga). Another story, “Bark and bent fibers,” accounts for the earliest form of textile in the Philippines, bark cloth, the known sources of which in the Cordillera are the pakak or sapot (Artocarus camansi), the arandon (Wikstroemia ovate C.A. Mey.) and a shrub called armay. This story is complemented by another, titled “Kapas and kimmayo: cotton in the Cordillera,” which is also a story of our cotton that goes beyond Spanish colonial history.

The story “Weaving and the Cordillera-Ilocos link” partly explains why the Ilokanos and the Tingguians share designs such as the binakul—specifically the kusikus (whirlwind pattern)—and the pinili (supplementary weft designs derived from nature).

Other sections of the exhibit feature tell about “Textiles and mathematical symmetry,” “How textiles mean,” “Looms: turning yarns into textiles,” “Function and fashion in contemporary textiles,” and a section with a device that allows for virtual dressing up in traditional Cordillera attires.

The exhibit, “Handwoven Tales,” according to Museo Kordilyera (MK) Director, Prof. Victoria Lourdes C. Diaz, brings attention not only to the aesthetics and cultural significance of textiles, but also to the scientific aspects of their production.

The new exhibit, which focuses on the rich weaving tradition of the indigenous communities in the Cordillera, was put together by a community of scholars led by Prof. Diaz, MK Curator Analyn V. Salvador-Amores, Emeritus Professor Delfin Tolentino Jr., and Museum Researcher Nicholai Fanged. Research inputs came from anthropology, science, ethnomathematics, art, and history, and features the findings of the research of the CORDITEX Project.

The technical knowledge from a multiple of disciplines was unified to tell the significant stories in this engaging and interactive exhibit. The exhibition was conceived, designed and set up by the team including MK regular personnel Jhoan Medrano, Gracelyn Angalao, Jodie Cheng, Demi Milan.

In the launching ceremonies, Prof. Diaz acknowledged the immense assistance of various groups and individuals who helped in mounting the exhibit, including Senator Loren Legarda, various local community weaving groups and organizations from all over the region, local and international museums, and the administration of UP Baguio. The program included a fashion show of pieces utilizing Cordillera textiles in contemporary clothing designed by Harvic Dominguez. UP Baguio Chancellor Raymundo Rovillos, Department of Tourism Regional Director (OIC) Jovita Gamongan, Baguio City Tourism Officer Aloysius “Alec” Mapalo” and Habi Philippine Textile Council President Adelaida Lim led the opening of viewing of the exhibit on Nov. 15.

With “Handwoven Tales,” the third exhibit mounted by Museo Kordilyera since its formal opening in Jan. 2017, the museum’s mission “to cultivate an understanding of and respect for the identity and culture of the indigenous peoples of the Cordillera and Northern Luzon as an integral part of the evolving Filipino culture.” MK thus resumes its regular operations to welcome the public, Tuesdays-Sundays, 09:00 a.m.-05:00 p.m. “Handwoven Tales” will run long-term.

For more information, visit MK’s page on facebook.com/upbmuseokordilyera.

               

Read more...

Heritage, ecology, fashion, furniture at Manila FAME

 HAPPY WEEKEND

Gina Dizon

(Especially invited by Soledad Valencia of Binnadang Ethnic Handicrafts of Baguio to Sagada Inabe which I chair, I’m delighted to share this story.)

PASAY CITY -- To all entrepreneurs doing crafts and arts, it’s an inspiration to get to join Manila Fame annually held at the World Trade Center in Pasay. Manila FAME is a national bi-annual exhibit showcasing varied products done by artisans from Bataan to Basilan organized by the Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions (CITEM) and the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI), an attached agency of CITEM.    

Buyers from international and national markets come to attend the event and get to see potential products for their trade displayed last October 17-19. Manila Fame attracts local and international retailers and manufacturers, wholesalers, trading firms, architects interior designers, exporters, business support organizations, and designers.

Product categories are those of furniture and furnishings, home accents, gift items, festive season décor, fashion accessories and wearables, handwoven and converted items, interior and  architectural components, visual arts, health and  wellness and gourmet gifts.

From its website, Manila Fame is a “celebration of exquisite and world-renowned craftsmanship in product design, mastery over sustainable materials, and unique quality that catapulted the careers of Filipino product designers to the global scene.”

“The archives of Manila Fame exhibitors are brimming with talents and ideas—a goldmine of inspiration formed under the tectonic influence of Manila FAME’s stewardship. To commemorate over 30 years of cultural inheritance, the trade show unleashes the most iconic and forward-looking pieces from its collection and infuse them with the vision of the new—creating an exciting amalgamation that honors a legacy of design excellence.”

This year’s event is its highlight on environmental consciousness and heritage.

Products are made of ecologically sound materials as rattan, abaca, vines, bamboo, cotton, shells; pine needles, driftwood, and natural plant dyes. And this includes recycled paper, recycled plastics, wasted woven cloth rather than wasting or burning these are  recycled into something useful as bags and more bags.

Done by artisans and artists from the different places of the country, consciously- made creations ranged from bags to baskets, shirts, jackets, poncho, scarves, shawls, cushion covers, shoes, sandals, hats, soap, chandeliers, wall decors, frames, blankets, to visual arts like using sand and using a ketchup dispenser.

Creations of bar stools made of recycled cloth, recycled bags made of newspapers, bags and more baskets made of rattan vines, newspapers, and shells ae especially mesmerizing..

What is in fashion now is making the environment livable and reducing the effects of  global  warming. Enough of plastics and nylon and lead and synthetic  and cutting down trees. Bags and fashion and linen and furniture makes use of saving trees and nourishing the  forests and making clean rivers and an environment for clean air to breathe in.  

Wears such as ponchos, shirts, are especially made from woven materials making use of cotton. Cotton is getting to be in as the fabric is made from plant and not the synthetic petroleum-based polyester made from a carbon-intensive non-renewable resource.

Women  entrepreneurs were especially  featured. Mostly women are entrepreneurs doing weaving and related crafts.  . 

Among some of the products displayed, ManIla FAME featured the Great Women (GWEN)  Project - the Gender Responsive Economic Actions for the Transformation of Women (GREAT Women) Project 2 which aims to assist women micro enterprises  improve their competitiveness and sustainability by providing focused interventions to improve their business management, product development and innovation competencies. The GWEN project is specially a program of the Philippine Commission on Women in partnership with DTI, Department of Science and Technology (DOST) and the Department of Agriculture (DA). The GWEN Project sponsored its enrolees' booths through DTI.

Some booths were especially sponsored by DTI and so by Local Government Units. Especially noticed the province of Iocos Sur and the Province of Basilan that sponsored the booths of their respective  entrepreneurs’ products.

Other booths like those of Region 10 and Davao were especially sponsored by their regional DTI. Booths of Katagowan Weaving and Binnadang ethnic Handicrafts of the Cordilleras were also specially supported by DTI.  

Which is good as sponsored registration fees help women entrepreneurs on travelling all the way from their provinces to Manila with all the expenses that one incurs in coming to the big city.

Heritage is the foundation and weaving is the way.

Woven products are made by adept hands of local women folk and indigenous peoples from the Igorots of the Cordillera- Bontoc of Mt Province, Ifugaos, Kalingas, Itnegs- to the traditional ‘abel’ among the Ilocanos of the Ilocos to the Iraya-Mangyans of Mindoro to the Yakans of Basilan, Mindanao.

From fabric apparel and home decors find weaving as the way to doing these. Bags and baskets are woven. And so with shirts and jackets accented with woven cloth. Blankets and linen sheets are woven. And so with furniture and home decors as chairs, tables, lamps and chandeliers.    

Weaving is a traditional livelihood especially from tribal communities with basket weaving made by men and products made of thread by women. Basketry is a beauty of sorts.

Basketry through weaving makes its way on bags, baskets, tables, chairs, chandeliers and lamps.

Displayed woven products from the Cordillera is especially made by Nards Enterprises, Leila’s loom weaving, Katagowan weaving, Shechem arts and crafts and Abra Indigo Cooperative of the Cordillera.

Narda’s Enterprises especially makes use of cotton and natural plant dyes. And so with Abra Indigo Cooperative has fine plant dyed weaves. 

Weaving is also found in bags made by Everything is Pine based in Baguio City. Its base material which are pine needles are used to make products as bags, pot holders and fruit trays.

use of abaca, rattan, bamboo and vines available from the forest. So this sends a message not to burn forests.

Weaving is also done to make chairs and bar stools out of used clothes. 

Woven cloth is made as accent on shirts, blouses and jackets, and a main material on sandals and shoes. This specially mentions PoiPoi, Coco and Tres, and WC of Manila where they incorporate woven cloth in their shirt and jacket creations. So with Baguio’s Abek Home and Culture making use of woven cloth and embroidery in her cotton shirts. 

Specially to mention Creative Definitions making use of woven material on their shoes.

Even recycled waste is woven into bags, fruit trays and baskets especially being made by Cordillera’s Binnadang ethnic handicrafts. Recycled chairs and cushions is especially made by indigenous local folks from Cebu popularized by Cebu Crafts. Cebu Crafts also make chandeliers and bar tables from drift wood. The owner of Cebu Crafts said they support the livelihood of locals.

Manila Fame also featured crafts made the Artisans Village in Manila that introduced local micro, small and medium enterprises and their crafts to the global market with the help of the DTI Regional Offices and LGUs in partnership with the Design Center of the Philippines.

Recycled shoes made from foil and named Lalapatos are made by Maco Custudio from Marikina.

Manila Fame’s eco-lifestyle section also introduced a special setting highlighted the country’s green and eco-sustainable sectors including those on furniture and home, fashion, gifts, and beauty and wellness.

The Design Commune is a curated exhibition space showcased products from Manila FAME’s merchandise development program.

Other products are painting and visual art organized by Dave’s Art Gallery and other art making use of local material such as sand.

Manila FAME in its website ‘promotes the Philippines as a reliable sourcing destination for high-quality and design-oriented home, fashion, holiday, architectural and interior products. It supports local small- and medium-scale enterprises and artisan communities by working with local designers to create new product collections and providing a professionally managed platform to present export products to the global market.”

Planning Officer of CITEM Diana Roldan specially said it is important that an exhibitor is ready with a catalogue of one’s products and a calling card one can readily give the potential buyer. Buyers also ask how many volumes of a product one can produce in a month. It is important to show that you are a serious businessperson, Roldan said.

CITEM’s mission says “we are committed to develop, nurture and promote globally competitive small and medium enterprises through an integrated approach to export promotions in partnership with private and government organizations”.

Read more...

DOST, RDC push revival of Cordillera weave trade

By Marlo Lubguban

BAGUIO CITY – The Dept. of Science and Technology-Cordillera, as vice chair of the Regional Development Council’s economic development committee, has initiated drafting of the Cordillera weaving industry development plan.

The revitalization of the weaving industry of the Cordillera was discussed during their recent committee meeting in Baguio. DOST Cordillera director Nancy Bantog said the plan is a collaboration of regional offices of DOST and National Economic Development Authority, National Cultural Communities Commission and Departments of Trade and Industry, Labor and Employment, , Tourism, Welfare and Development, Cooperative Development Authority and and TESDA with the University of the Philippines-Baguio, Benguet State University, Philippine Fiber Industry Development Authority, and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, through a memorandum of understanding.

The DOST-CAR recently held a forum in Baguio City with concerned stakeholders from the academe, government agencies, weavers and local government units to gather insights on crafting the industry development plan.
Committee chair and DTI-Cordillera regional director Myrna Pablo said weaving is one of the main reasons for the declaration of Baguio City as a UNESCO creative city for folk arts and crafts.

UP Baguio Chancellor Raymundo Rovillos, added that the goal of the creative economy is increasing value of local products such as indigenous weaves.

“The intensive labor, history, culture, and tradition all add to the value of the product,” he added.

He said Cordillera fabrics are not intended for mass production which also justifies its current price level.

Pablo said that DTI-CAR gives trainings on proper product pricing for the benefit of both the producers and consumers.
DOST-CAR eyes to have the development plan endorsed by the RDC this year.

The Cordillera Month celebration led by the RDC infrastructure committee and the provincial government of Kalinga will feature Cordilleran fabrics in an all-age fashion show promoting indigenous weaving products by different designers from all over the region.

 Through the regional development plan 2017-2022, NEDA-CAR aims to promote and develop the local weaving industry for improved export, employment, and income opportunities for the region.

Read more...

Kalinga weaving as SHS track awaits DepEd okay

By Jesse Maguiya 

TABUK CITY, Kalinga -- The inclusion of the traditional Kalinga weaving as a special track for Senior High School in Lubuagan town here will have to wait for another year as the program implementation is still being finalized, a Dept. of Education official said.

Ginadine Balagso, officer-in-charge Assistant Schools Division Superintendent of Kalinga, said they are waiting for the formal approval of the curriculum submitted to the central office.

She, however, said they are positive the program will be implemented as the approval is a mere formality.

"It was submitted as a special track needing that the central office as the approving authority. We are positive that it will be approved,” she said.

In February, Education Secretary Leonor Briones witnessed the signing of a memorandum of agreement between the local government of Lubuagan and the DepEd-Kalinga for the implementation of the program.

Briones lauded the conceptualization of the program, which will boost not just the knowledge of the students, but also the promotion of traditional and customary practices.

“It was launched as one special track in Lubuagan, as a stand-alone track,” Balagso told the Philippine News Agency (PNA).

Lubuagan’s “laga” (weaving) is among the practices in Kalinga province which is considered as a living tradition. The “laga” practice has also become the town’s festival which they call “laga festival”.

She said while the approval is being awaited, they are working out things with the local government for the honorarium of the teacher who will handle the track.

She said the local government is willing to help in funding the program, using its Special Education fund.

“The LGU is very much willing to give temporarily the honorarium to the teacher,” she said.

Balagso said Lubuagan’s weaving industry remains active and alive, and the students are taught how to weave as early as their elementary years as part of the practice to preserve the culture.

“It is only in Lubuagan where the weaving industry is maintained until now,” she said.

Even before the DepEd's Indigenous Peoples Education (IPEd), teaching the children how to weave the traditional way has already been part of the educational system in Lubuagan under home economics.

Balagso said when the K-12 curriculum was implemented, it was adapted as a lesson for Senior High until a teacher at the Kalinga State University handling it broached the idea of making it a track.

Weaving as a track will be implemented only in Lubuagan, specifically at Kalinga Academy, the first and only private educational institution in Lubuagan and in Kalinga since the early years.

“The community does not want a new high school there because they wanted to maintain the Kalinga Academy in Lubuagan. Lubuagan was the center of education, of civilization, even my father finished his education there,” Balagso said. -- PNA

Read more...

DOST, RDC push revival of Cordillera weaving trade

By Marlo Lubguban

BAGUIO CITY – The Dept. of Science and Technology-Cordillera,  as vice chair of the Regional Development Council’s economic development committee, has initiated drafting of the Cordillera weaving industry development plan.

The revitalization of the weaving industry of the Cordillera was discussed during their recent committee meeting in Baguio. DOST Cordillera director Nancy Bantog said the plan is a collaboration of regional offices of DOST and National Economic Development Authority, National Cultural Communities Commission and Departments of Trade and Industry, Labor and Employment, , Tourism, Welfare and Development, Cooperative Development Authority and and TESDA with the University of the Philippines-Baguio, Benguet State University, Philippine Fiber Industry Development Authority, and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, through a memorandum of understanding.

The DOST-CAR recently held a forum in Baguio City with concerned stakeholders from the academe, government agencies, weavers and local government units to gather insights on crafting the industry development plan.

Committee chair and DTI-Cordillera regional director Myrna Pablo said weaving is one of the main reasons for the declaration of Baguio City as a UNESCO creative city for folk arts and crafts.

UP Baguio Chancellor Raymundo Rovillos, added that the goal of the creative economy is increasing value of local products such as indigenous weaves.

“The intensive labor, history, culture, and tradition all add to the value of the product,” he added.

He said Cordillera fabrics are not intended for mass production which also justifies its current price level.

Pablo said that DTI-CAR gives trainings on proper product pricing for the benefit of both the producers and consumers.

DOST-CAR eyes to have the development plan endorsed by the RDC this year.

The Cordillera Month celebration led by the RDC infrastructure committee and the provincial government of Kalinga will feature Cordilleran fabrics in an all-age fashion show promoting indigenous weaving products by different designers from all over the region.

Through the regional development plan 2017-2022, NEDA-CAR aims to promote and develop the local weaving industry for improved export, employment, and income opportunities for the region.

Read more...

Labor woes, lack of workers hamper Sagada weave trade

By Gina Dizon

SAGADA, Mountain Province - In this town famous for its woven products made by nearly 100 women-weavers, seamstresses and tailors, 27 weaving firms and two organizations are facing labor issues, lack of seamstresses and a processing center for dyemaking.

In a workshop-forum last month conducted by Sagada Inabe, major issues presented by the weavers were claims of below minimum wages and lack or no benefits. One of the participants said they are paid wages at P250 per day for a long time since they entered establishment they are working in.

 An overtime pay is P2 an hour, one claimed. President Rodrigo Duterte in his State of the Nation Address (SONA) last year announced an increase of minimum wage per day from P270 to a high of P400 per day depending on area.

Wage Order No. RAB- CAR-19 provides a P315 minimum wage per day for 11 or more employees and P305 minimum wage for 10 or less employees fro Sagada, Bontoc and Bauko; and P300 minimum wage in other parts of Mountain Province.   

A weaver claimed they are paid on piece rate P50- 60 pesos per meter of the woven cloth they weave which in most cases means weavers could get around 250 per day of non – stop weaving except for some minutes of rest including lunch.

This along with the need for sewers noted to be a major problem in the weaving industry of this town. An owner of a weaving firm with only three se said she needs at least four to work on stand-by sewing machines.

 This writer who manages Sagada Inabe, an organization of women weavers employs one seamstress and is in need of more. Weavers are part time farmers – and for some — part time masseurs.

Technical and Educational Skills Development Authority (TESDA) director for Mountain Province lawyer Eric Ueda urged the participants to avail of the skills trainings given by TESDA.

Participants also forwarded the need for plant fibers as material for dyes and fabric as alternative to the expensive polyester thread sold in the country and imported from China

Lucia Capuyan Catanes, research and designs manager of Narda’s Enterprises encouraged weavers to experiment on their designs. She cited good practices of “sayang” and/or “kailala” to use scrap and local materials for use in designs of woven items as she learned from her mother, Narda Capuyan, founder of the internationally famous Narda’s Enterprises.

Juliet Lucas Department of Trade and Industry director for Mountain Province hammered on the importance of noting value chain in the weaving industry along with the need to significantly know what to focus on in packaging one’s product.

 Weaving in Mountain Province started in the 1970s when Andrea Bondad started Sagada Weaving. Though weaving started at Easter Weaving in 1908 with weaving as part of the student’s homeroom, Virginia Doligas, manager of Easter Weaving said.

Doligas encouraged weavers to avail of weaving opportunities at Easter Weaving. Early weavers from Sagada Weaving formed their own enterprise among some are Indigenous Handicrafts, Langbay’s Handicrafts, and Sagada View Handicrafts. Others started their own among some are Kamowan, Ethnic Handicrafts , 7Js Mountainside, Sagada Kindasan, North Weaving, Sagada Cave Arts and Crafts.

 Some weavers split from Sagada Weaving and formed their own organization, Pinagpagan. Sagada Inabe is inspired from the many individual weaving enterprises and put up a weavers’ cooperative. Some participants forwarded their need for sewing machines.

Minerva Songaben, Research Specialist of the Department of Science and Technology (DOST)-Mountain Province encouraged the weavers to forward proposals to avail of DOST’s program on support for equipment like sewing machines and weaving looms.

Capital is still a concern forwarded by the participants. Venus Padayao, focal person on Small and Medium Scale Enterprises (SMSE) of the provincial government of Mountain Province advised participants to approach the said office. The workshop- forum was supported by Gov. Bonifacio Lacwasan, engineer Jupiter Dominguez and Ms Cymbeline Lumpias Pooten

Read more...

Deaf-mute couple weave business to success

                                                      

By

Charene Toyoken Dacwag

Bangaan National High School   

Being deaf and mute is no hindrance to this couple from the hinterlands of the Cordillera to move about as normal people do. They tried to go to school, fall in love, get married, have children, raise a family, establish their source of livelihood and be successful  in it.

Couple Robert Ag-a and Irene Wanawan were born deaf and mute. Despite their conditions, they went to school, struggling to learn as much as they can. Robert Ag-a from Demang, Sagada was able to graduate in elementary education. Irene Wanawan from barangay Madongo of northern Sagada of the same town could not stand all the criticisms and bullying that she received because of her condition. This caused her to stop schooling after completing third grade.

The system of life back then was, ‘nu epdas nasiken, mabalin et maki-balasa (teenagers can now work)’.  So it is customary for children to help their parents work in the field and more so where   child has already reached teenagehood that her capacity to work and be productive as a grown up person is a norm here in the highland tribes of Mountain Province particularly Sagada.  

So at a young age, they set out on the world to find their luck.  Robert Ag-a and Irene  Wanawan found work as weavers at Sagada Weaving, a weaving firm established at Poblacion Sagada in August 1980 by Ms Andrea Bondad. Soon after with everyday presence of seeing each other at work, they found themselves going close together and in love. It was not very long before they were gifted with two beautiful identical twins namely Elizabeth and Lilibeth. A couple of years later, they bore another beautiful child who was then named Irene after her mother.

After marriage, they decided to put up their own weaving establishment March 2000. They named it “Langbay’s Handicrafts” after Ag-‘s Igorot name ‘Langbay’. The weaving establishment is found in Tam-aw, Madongo, Sagada, Mountain Province which also locates their residence.

The couple said their aim in putting up their business is to fulfill their dreams: to have enough money so that they can put up their own house and to send their kids to school so that every single one of their kids will have a good life. With their perseverance and industry they were able to have their house built and are currently sending two of their children to college. 

The Langbay Handicrafts is one of the main producers and suppliers of woven products in northern Sagada and one among nearly 20 weaving enterprises in the tourist town. The main products of the said establishment are backpacks, round bags, and ethnic attire such as the ‘wanes’ or the g-string, ‘gateng’ or the tapis, ‘wakes’,  blazers, chaleko, and others. Just like any weaving establishment, they also make wallets and handbags, hats, coin purses, and the kind. They also accept orders such as seat covers and upholstery of vehicles. All the main products are made by hand by Robert Ag-a and wife.

According to some of their customers and clients, their products are long-lasting and durable. This is because the couple is strict with quality. The wife ensures that the woven outputs are living up to quality. Irene  has a way of communicating what is wrong with an output and what must be done to ensure excellence in the product pointing this out in hand  signals. That is, if a woven material is loose and has to be formed up or one that has protruding thread and has to be tucked firm in place or cut and discarded and the remaining material to be used for the  final product.

Communicating via hand signals and looking at the couple’s facial expression let you know what they are saying. For co-residents and others in town with the same dialect, communication comes kind of easy. For customers who don’t share the same dialect, the products speak for themselves along with the prices which are already indicated in the products on display.  

Aside from making hand woven products, they also offer different services as the repair of clothes especially pants and repair of bags usually fixation of zippers. He has some exemptions on these services that he offers.

           If the material to be repaired is owned by kids, he gives discounts and there are even times he’ll do it for free, depending on the damage. On the repair of bags, if it is one of his products, he will repair it for free.

                The manpower of the weaving establishment is composed only of husband and wife. Robert Ag-a does the repair and sewing while his wife does the loom-weaving to produce the woven cloth that will be used in making the main products. While Robert Ag-a mainly does the sewing, he also helps in weaving when their products become a demand. Their daughters help them during their leisure time in weaving and attending to customers in the shop . Irene and Lilibeth help their mother in loom-weaving while Elizabeth, a BS entrepreneur student helps their father in weaving.

They also intend to provide the needs for the i-Northern Sagada. 

The establishment also offers help to the people in the area in terms of providing livelihood. In some cases, some women weave and are paid for their output  to pay off their debt to the couple if they happen to have borrowed some money.

Equipment is few in the work place. There are four sewing machines. Two are electrical and two are manual. They also have four Looms.  The machinery that caught our attention was the spinning wheel that was made of wood. It was old and simple but it was durable for it has lasted for how many years. The spinning wheel is used to fix spools of thread so that the threads are ready for weaving purposes.

In order to market customers, they need to advertise their products. On the word of Robert Ag-a, their means of advertising at the start was through the printed shirts with the handicraft’s logo. Their feature on ABS-CBN also brought them more customers. The children also wear the products of their parents to school. This brings in more customers.

Some government personnel  have their uniforms woven and sawn by Langbay’s Handicrafts. It must be that they have quality material that their products are patronized.

Just like any business establishment, they have displays of their products in a glass case right after you enter the door of their shop. Somehow, there are lesser items on display because they are always out-of-stock due to their products being in demand. If you want a certain product of theirs, you would have to order it. There are also Souvenir Stores who order their products and put the items on display. The Pasalubong Center in Bontoc, Mountain Province for example, displays some of Langbay’s Handicrafts.

The business also has some downfalls. Because of lack of manpower, there are times that the orders can not be made on time. This means some customers cancel their orders if it takes too long to make. The cancelled orders end up on the display case. Somehow, the business also has its ups. There are times that the number of walk-in customers increase and this results in the upturn of sales and number of orders.

And with northern Sagada already attracting tourists to the popular  Bumod-ok Falls located in nearby Fidelisan, some visitors buy their souvenir items here at Langbay’s Handicrafts on their way back to the Poblacion. 

As Bonsai Cielo said in her Facebook  page, “visiting Mr. Robert Langbay at his shop is always a must for us when visiting Sagada.”

According to their daughter Irene, her father closes the shop once in a while to finish the orders on time. This also gives him a chance to produce more stocks.

The couple was asked on what inspired them to create lovely handicrafts. Robert Ag-a smiled then expressed his answer in sign language to his daughter. His answer was, “What we have built and what we have become today, I feel like I owe it to my parents. They were the ones who opened a new world for me despite my condition. They sacrificed and went through a lot of hardships just so that I can be in the mainstream.”

Irene Ag-a also beamed when asked the same question and said, “Back then, I was bullied often. The painful words and criticism pushed me to bring out the best in me. The hurtful words from my contemporaries were engraved in my mind. I considered it as a challenge. I used my talent to show the people that just because I’m deaf and mute doesn’t mean I’m of no use.”

They have a similar answer, though. They said, “We have experienced the hardships of life. We do not want what we experienced to be experienced by our children. Besides, we have big dreams for them, and that is for them to have good lives.”

The support of the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) was noted in the couple’s  joining DTI-sponsored trade fairs and being a part of livelihood training  skills the government agency provides.

The Ag-a couple show and define what success means. They are a one-of-a-kind kind of people. They survived the challenges and trials that were imposed to them. They proved that determination and perseverance can make anything happen. They serve as an inspiration to the people in the community. Regardless of their being different-abled, they still managed to put up a business, strive and sustain it. Indeed, nothing is impossible.

Read more...